The outgoing Diesel creative director presented an experimental collection at Milan Fashion Week, blending body positivity, innovative textiles and daring designs in his final show for the brand.
Glenn Martens Concludes Diesel Tenure with Provocative Fashion Show
Glenn Martens marked his departure from Diesel with an unconventional runway presentation at Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday. The designer, who joined the Italian fashion brand in 2020, showcased a collection that combined daring silhouettes, experimental materials and the brand’s distinctive approach to denim.
The show featured dramatic red lighting and an energetic atmosphere, with models participating in theatrical performances alongside the runway. The presentation included suggestive vocal performances set to the iconic song Love to Love You Baby, reinforcing Martens’ focus on self-expression and body positivity.
“Every season we try to do something unexpected. This one was a bit more … experimental,” Martens said backstage.
He added that celebrating body positivity and mutual appreciation reflected Diesel’s identity and creative direction.
Experimental Designs Highlight Diesel’s Signature Style
Martens’ final collection featured a range of innovative designs that demonstrated his approach to transforming traditional fabrics.
Key highlights included:
- Denim and leather: Knitwear appeared to transition into denim and leather, creating a distressed and unconventional aesthetic.
- Trompe l’oeil techniques: The designer used visual illusions to replicate the appearance of premium shearling and leather.
- Daring silhouettes: Shorts became progressively shorter, with the final designs featuring minimal fabric coverage.
- Distressed clothing: Laser-cut T-shirts were designed to appear worn and partially dismantled.
- Styling details: Smudged lipstick and deliberately disheveled outfits added to the collection’s rebellious character.
The designs reflected Diesel’s long-standing emphasis on experimentation and casual fashion with an edgy visual identity.
Runway Performance Ends with Headbanging and Standing Ovation
As the show approached its conclusion, the performance shifted from suggestive movements to energetic headbanging. Martens received a standing ovation from the audience following the presentation.
The finale provided a memorable ending to his time as Diesel’s creative director, highlighting the theatrical and unconventional elements that characterized his tenure.
Martens Continues at Maison Margiela
Although Martens is leaving Diesel, he will remain part of the OTB Group, the parent company that also owns Maison Margiela.
He will continue working with the Paris-based avant-garde fashion house, where his role allows him to pursue creative projects within the luxury fashion sector.
Reflecting on his work at Diesel, Martens emphasized the importance of maintaining the brand’s alternative identity while focusing on clothing and community.
“At Diesel, we never pretended to be a luxury brand, even though we were on during fashion week,” he said.
The designer also highlighted his interest in exploring unconventional ideas and celebrating the community surrounding the brand.
A Distinctive Chapter in Diesel’s Fashion History
Since joining Diesel in 2020, Glenn Martens has helped shape the brand’s contemporary creative direction through experimental designs, denim innovation and unconventional runway presentations.
His final Milan Fashion Week show brought these elements together in a presentation centered on self-expression, bold styling and creative freedom.
As Martens moves forward with Maison Margiela, Diesel enters a new phase in its design leadership while retaining the distinctive identity that has shaped its fashion presence.
